38 days , 37 Nights
The Trango Towers are a family of rock towers situated in Gilgit-Baltistan, in the north of Pakistan. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the difficult granite.
One of the more famous and possibly the group of peaks that would get the most votes for being the toughest is the Trango Tower Peaks. There are two main summits in the central part of the group: Great Trango Tower (6286m) and Nameless Tower (6230m) a.k.a. just Trango Tower.
The group is reasonable easy to access as it is located much closer to civilization than many other popular peaks in Pakistan. You would suspect a peak like Trango Tower is an expensive climb, but it isn’t. Like all other peaks in Pakistan the price tag on the permit is determined by the peak’s elevation and therefore Trango Tower comes at a very affordable price.
The peaks have some of the highest vertical faces on the planet and were for a long time some of the most coveted mountaineering challenges. It was not until 1975 the area opened for climbing and the race for the hard-to-reach summits began.
Great Trango Tower has three routes straight up the E/NE face and a couple of alpine routes on the NW and W sides of the peak. Nameless Tower has been climbed via many routes, which all are located on its SE and SW faces. It’s said the quality of the granite is very good on both the main peaks as well as on the lesser peaks in the area.
Trango Tower Peak registration is open for all seasons. We are offering Trango Tower Peak for mountaineers, climbers and alpinists from around the world.
Arrive at the airport in Islamabad, where our driver will meet you and transport you to the hotel so you can relax and freshen yourself.
Participants will fly from Islamabad airport to Skardu airport this morning. If the clouds allow, you will be able to view Nanga Parbat. The day after arriving in Skardu is free. ISLAMABAD TO SKARDU FLIGHT (45 minuets), 2,230 m/7,316ft
After checking into our accommodation, we'll spend the day exploring Bazar, historical forts, gorgeous lakes, or old rock inscriptions, one of which is the 8th century Manthal Buddha Rock, which exhibits evidence of Buddhist monks and pilgrims who had influence in the area before to Islam. In the east of Pakistan’s northern Gilgit-Baltistan region at around 2,230 meters altitude lies Skardu.
We will begin our 7-hour jeep adventure to Askole village by first traveling the chilly desert to Shigar valley. However, it is dependent on the road conditions. The distance will take you between six and eight hours to complete. As of 2021, the road into the national park has been expanded, allowing us to begin the walk from Jhula camp rather than Askole, saving us a day of hot, dusty trekking on the road.. We will eat lunch in route.
On this Day Accommodation: Camping Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner GPS Data Trekking distance: 20km Altitude gain/loss: 283 m up Camp elevation: 3,383 m early start and a 5- to 7-hour hike. again largely level, with minor ascents and descents, and a brief river crossing.
From our camp at Paiju, a walk of approximately one hour brings us to the snout of the Baltoro Glacier. After viewing the outpouring of melt water from the ice we now climb up onto the back of this great beast. At the snout of the Baltoro Glacier the trail divides. We will take the left branch to reach the Trango Tower base camp. En-route we will enjoy spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama including Paiyu Peak (6660m), Uli Biaho Tower (6417m), Liligo, Urdukas Peak, Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), Mitre Peak (6025m) and etc. The amphitheatre provides an ideal venue to appreciate some of the most inspiring and unique mountain vistas in the world. Finally we are at the Base Camp of Great Trango Tower and hard work has paid off with a sensational views of the Cathedral Towers, the Trango Group and the striking rock tower of Uli Biaho.
Non guided climbing of Trango Tower will start from today onwards. During the climbing period of Trango Tower our staff will be at base camp to help and assist you.
After the climbing period of Trango Tower, we will head back towards Islamabad by following the same itinerary backwards. Today we will trek on the Baltoro Glacier with spectacular views of the Trango Towers towards Paiju. As on our approach we have to detour to the south in order to cross the Liligo Glacier. This glacier defies world trends in that it is steadily growing. Twenty years ago its snout was half a mile up the valley and now it has collided with the main Baltoro Glacier, with the result that the churning forces have made it impossible to cross without the detour.
This will be our final walking day of Trango Tower Expedition. Now we are off the glacier and at a lower elevation it is considerably warmer and we may make an early start to use the cool of the morning. Leaving Paiju we walk on a good trail down the valley. Once again it is surprising how different the experience is compared to our ascent. The trail rises and falls as we cross several alluvial fans. We have to cross some side streams today, mostly using makeshift bridges or stepping-stones but it may be necessary also to wade across, especially later in the day. The source of all these streams is meltwater and so they grow bigger as the day gets warmer. At one point the trail passes close to the river beside walls of conglomerate and it is possible to feel its tremendous power. We follow the main Braldu River downstream to its confluence with the Panma River where we turn north-east to reach a camping place beside the toll bridge at the place known as Jhola.
Our vehicles will already be waiting for us in Johla so we make an early start for the return drive to Skardu.
GPS Data Altitude: 538 m On this day the participants will take a flight from the airport in Skardu to Islamabad aiport. You will have a good time to relax at the hotel in Islamabad. The domestic flights sometime get cancelled due to weather conditions. Incase of flight cancellation, you will drive to Chilas for overnight. It takes eight to ten hours by a vehicle.
If we flew up to Skardu this will be an added bonus as it is a fantastic travel experience in its own right. The drive down the Indus River to Islamabad takes two days so this is an important contingency day to allow for this. If we have flown to Islamabad this will be a further day for sightseeing in the capital and your leader will advise the group on the options available for today.
After Breakfast you will be Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for the flight back home. End of “Trango Tower Expedition” .